Discover the wonderful world of Chainmaille
A Brief History of Chainmaille.
One of the earliest form of metal armour, chainmaille was invented before the 5th century. The name mail comes from the French word “maille” which is derived from the Latin “macula” meaning “mesh of a net”. The armour itself involved linking iron or steel rings, the ends of which were pressed together, welded or riveted. Sometimes the rings were stamped out of a sheet of iron and these closed rings were then used alternately with riveted links. The most common form of chainmail is the “four-in-one” pattern, where each link has four others connected through it.
There are three major types of traditional chainmaille patterns used in creating jewellery designs, though others can and are successfully adapted for use in designs as well.
Japanese
This is one of the oldest forms of chain maille dating back about 3000 years, the Japanese weaves worked by linking rings in simplistic flat box structures or hexagonal grid patterns. Known as “kasuri, vertical links were generally oval rings connected with round rings. The rings were much smaller than those the Europeans would use, and were often lacquered to prevent rust before being sewn onto a backing of cloth or leather.
European
The basic European 4 in 1 is the most commonly seen flat maille weave. European maille, likely created by the Celts around 400 B.C.E., developed from initially sewing wrought iron rings edge to edge into leather armor to reinforce it. It was soon realized that more flexibility and strength could be obtained by linking the rings directly to one another in interlocking fashions. Early on the pattern alternated between rows of soldered rings and rows of riveted rings, but after 14th century all rings were riveted. When the Romans arrived they adopted the practice into their own armor.
Other weaves in this family have been developed based on similar principals, such as Byzantine, although this was certainly used purely for decoration. Byzantine chainmaille was probably invented in Italy, and the design is still very commonly seen in Italian jewelry stores.
Persian
Another family of chainmaille weaves, it is very hard to find historical support for their creation in the Persian empire. The suspicion is that this is a more modern family, named to suit the intricately beautiful patterns. There are plenty of other chain weaves such as the spiral or double helix and its variations, but again these are most likely common inventions.
Modern Day Chainmaille
Artists have discovered that chainmaille can look extremely feminine when made in precious metals and delicate designs. It is also very durable and the only limitation is imagination. Precious items exist today that were fashioned from this ancient art. Today's artists utilize traditional patterns but modify them to create unique patterns of their own. New metals have been introduces, old metals resurrected. Glass, metal, pearls or precious stones can be used to embellish any piece.
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